Posts
Creamy Lemon Chicken Pasta
1 day ago
Showing posts with label DIY Furniture Project. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY Furniture Project. Show all posts
Kitchen Table Redo Tutorial
After working my way through a very lengthy, but cathartic, furniture project, I feel compelled to share my process, as well as my successes and failings.
Below is the tutorial I have put together, which details the process I took to complete this project! If you are interested in reading my blog posts while I worked on this project, check out the links at the bottom of the tutorial! :)
Prep Time: One trip to Home Depot
Work Time: 24 Hours
Total Project Time: 72 hours (includes dry time)
 |
| Supplies |
Purchase Materials:
- Zinsser Cover Stain Oil Based Primer - $9
- Minwax water-based Polycrylic - $18
- Paint of your choice - $9
- Two medium grit sanding blocks - $7
- Three paint brushes - $15
- Dust/paint fume masks - $3
Total: $61
Lightly Sand Surface:
Lightly Sand Surface:
I took a medium grit sanding block and very lightly, and I mean very, very lightly, sanded down every inch of the table and chairs you plan to paint. This is done to give the primer something to grip when it is applied.
 |
| The table and chairs after the primer step was complete. |
Apply Oil Based Primer:
Take a paint brush and paint the primer everywhere on the table and chairs you sanded and plan to paint. I chose to cover the whole table because I felt that my table would not be complete if the underside was not the same color as everything else. BUT, that is just me.
This step is done instead of sanding. If you plan to stain your furniture, do not apply primer. Primer is used when you do not want to sand down the furniture and instead want to paint it fun colors!
I applied two coats to the table and one coat to each of the chairs. I am not sure a second coat is necessary, but I wanted to make sure the paint would stick and other blogs on furniture projects often do two coats. Give the primer 24 hours to fully dry before you begin painting.
TIP: When you paint, always start with the underside of the furniture In other words, turn the piece of furniture upside down and paint that side first. If you can paint looking down, as opposed to up and at an angle, you are going to save yourself from a ton of neck and back pain.
 |
| After the two coats of paint. |
Apply Paint of Choice:
Paint one layer over the entire table and chairs and allow it to dry before you begin another coat. I suggest painting at least two coats. I probably should have painted three coats, but because this process took so much longer than I had anticipated I settled for two, and there are a few spots where the paint is thinner and you can see it if the light hits it just right.
I also found it a bit tricky to paint the chair legs and poles on the chair backs. I developed my own method for painting them, which is to paint side to side and not up and down. I am sure there are some professionals who are sighing or yelling at their computer screens at that, but it worked well for me. I actually saw a ton of brush strokes on the poles when I painted them up and down.
To see pictures of what I mean by "side to side" and "up and down" and for some more painting tips Click Here.
 |
| A completed chair! |
Apply Polycrylic:
Apply a thin, smooth coat of polycrylic. Allow at least two hours to dry between coats. The milky color is normal, it will dry clear.
I put one coat on all the chairs, two coat on the seat of the chair, two coats on the bottom of the table, and four coats on the top of the table. The directions say to apply two coats, but I wanted to be done with it. So far so good.
This was by far the most daunting and difficult part of the project. I did not enjoy working with the Minwax Polycrylic, but it came out looking really nice when it was finished, so it is a toss up.
My biggest issue with the polycrylic is the tendency for it to bubble when you apply it. It is difficult to smooth it out and if you are unable to to, the bubbles show up on the final product.
For some tips for working with Minwax Polycrylic gathered from a variety of sources Click Here.
Allow at Least 24 Hours to Set:
I let it set for 23 hours, despite internet warnings and the directions on the can. Everything seemed fine, until I picked up a glass that had been sitting on the table for a couple hours. It left a milky, raised ring. I was so upset with myself. BUT, after the ring dried, it not only disappeared, it was no longer raised either. You cannot even tell I almost ruined my table.
After re-reading some polycrylic tips, I am guessing I did not let the polycrylic dry fully before applying another coat. I waited 2-3 hours between each coat, but the temperature and room play a huge role in the drying process. Apparently the colder temperature of my garage was a hindrance to the drying process.
Also, FYI if you have animals, there hair is almost certainly going to become a permanent element of your project.
I guess following directions is always a good idea.
 |
| The finished table! |
Kitchen Table Redo: Part One
Kitchen Table Redo: Part Two
Kitchen Table Redo: Part Two and a Half
Kitchen Table Redo: Part Two and Three Quarters - Painting tips
Kitchen Table Redo: Part Three - Tips for working with Minwax Polycrylic
Kitchen Table Redo: Part Three and a Half - FINISHED
Kitchen Table Redo: Part 3 and a Half - FINISHED!
I did it! I finally finished the kitchen table! And just in time to show it off at my birthday party this past weekend. I am going to say it, my friends were impressed.I think it turned out well! There are plenty of mistakes, which I have turned into learning opportunities. The biggest one being that I managed to trap some of my puppy's hair under the polycrylic, on the table top. I will just tell people I was doing it on purpose...trying to memorialize a piece/pieces of her...maybe people will buy it??
I also chipped the paint in the middle of the table, after I had applied a coat of polycrylic. I painted over it, which left a bump, but otherwise looks fine.What do you think?
I am excited it is done and I can move on to other fun projects!
Kitchen Table Redo: Part 3 - Tips for working with Minwax Polycrylic
 |
| Take a look at this beautiful, shiny chair! |
I have put two coats on the bottom of the table and one coat on two of the chairs. I will finish the one coat on the other four chairs this evening (I am taking a break from the fumes and dim lit garage to blog, obviously, and work on other chores I need to finish before this weekend). I am pretty sure I am going to keep it to one coat on the chairs. Minwax is a very tricky material to work with and I am not at all enjoying the process.
 |
| The air bubbles. I find the only place they are showing up once dry are on the poles and other non-flat surfaces. |
Which brings me to the point of this post. I entered this project with no freaking idea on how to use Minwax Polycrylic properly, except for the directions on the can, and my first coat of Minwax was bubbly and looked awful. So, I decided to stop and do some research on using Minwax. My first stop, was naturally furniture redo blog posts. Unfortunately, none of the ones I looked at mentioned the bubbly problem I was having so I assumed it was me and got very irritated. BUT, then I did a couple Google searches and low and behold, the bubbles happen to most everyone! That was such a wonderful discovery, I decided to collect the various tactics for dealing with these pesky bubbles and put them in one place.
Quick Tips for Working with Minwax Polycrylic:
- Make sure there are no dust particles or hairs on the surface, as these tend to cause bubbles. eHow
- I did not find this tip to be very helpful, because I have two cats and a dog, and I unfortunately carry their hair with me everywhere. I did wipe down the surfaces before applying the Minwax, but did not find it did much to prevent the bubbles.
- Often the bubbles are caused by over working/painting. To avoid this, try using less brush strokes. eHow
- This is something I did find I was doing. I was treating the Minwax like paint, which it is not, and was trying to smooth out the bubbles by continuously working it. I started using very light brush strokes and found this to help rid the surface of bubbles.
- Often the bubbles will disappear after a couple of minutes. If they do not, try tapping the furniture being painted to help the process along. eHow
- I tried tapping the wood, banging the wood, and all sorts of other types of movement to create vibrations and it did not work.
- If the bubbles dry, sand it down and reapply the Minwax. eHow
- I have not come close to even considering this step, but I have also not done the top on my table yet...I really hate sanding, so I hope it does not come to this.
- Brush with light strokes and in one constant direction. eHow
- This is what I did and it works really well. I felt like I was often over working the polycrylic, but if I was consistent in direction and using a light touch, the bubbles eventually went away.
- Dewhisker the wood first. This creates a smooth surface. ncwoodworker.com
- I did not do this, so I suppose my project will be "rough," but I think I am okay with this...
- Do not shake the can and allow the can 24+ hours to settle before use after purchase. This is one of the causes for lots of air bubbles. ncwoodworker.com
- I did this, but not on purpose, and I still had many air bubbles.
- Paint in 70 degrees Fahrenheit or better. ncwoodworker.com
- Um...I do not think I did this, as it is spring and the weather is wonky.
- Do not dip your brush into the can and then wipe excess on the side of the can. This can cause air bubbles. Instead, dip less deeply to avoid over loading the brush. finewoodworking.com
- I did this and it did create a lot of bubbles. When I stopped, I still had bubbles, but there were less.
- Use a foam brush to remove the bubbles. finewoodworking.com
- I did not do this, but while scouring the web I noticed there were quite a few people that were quite adamant about this technique.
I hope this was helpful. Enjoy projecting. :)
Kitchen Table Redo: Part Two and Three Quarters - Painting Tips
 |
| (Sorry for the dark picture. I promise when it is completely finished, I will take a nice bright picture!) |
Of course, that is tomorrow's task, tonight I just wanted to provide some very quick and easy furniture painting tips that I learned with this venture. Hopefully they will help you keep from making the silly mistakes I made.
Quick Painting Tips:- Always start with the underside of the furniture. In other words, turn the piece of furniture upside down and paint that side first. If you can paint looking down, as opposed to up and at an angle, you are going to save yourself from a ton a neck and back pain.
- If you are painting cylinder type surfaces, such as table legs, chair legs, or the posts on the back of the chair, do not paint up and down. Paint side to side, or rather going around the surface. (Refer to the images below for an example of what I mean) It spreads the paint easier and leaves less brush marks.
- Always try to follow the wood grain. For some reason this has been ingrained in my brain since I was a child, and I have found it to be completely true.
- If you can, always paint up. Except on the cylinder type surfaces mentioned in #2. I tried to paint up on those and it was not pretty.
- This one really has less to do with painting and more to do with comfort and cleanliness. Always keep a beverage handy. It is really awful to be in the middle of painting, get thirsty, and have to carefully go in the house to quench your thirst, only to accidentally get paint on the counter or on a cup. Which reminds me, make sure the beverage is in an old cup, or a disposable cup, that way if you do get paint on it you will not be upset with yourself.
- Have a good time. Crank up the music, grab a beer or some tea, and enjoy the process at hand.
The RIGHT way to paint
cylinder type surfaces
The WRONG way to paint
cylinder type surfaces
Kitchen Table Redo: Part Two and a Half
Note to self, when purchasing expensive, somewhat destructive, materials for projects, do not leave them where your cat can find them. Professor Farnsworth (pictured below) found the polycrylic protective finish sitting on the end table in the living room yesterday. It sat there for three days next to a vase and a glass candle holder, which he never disturbs by the way, before he discovered it. You know what he did once he found it? He decided it was better off on the floor...
 |
| Doesn't he just look so peaceful and sweet? Most of the time he is, but sometimes he just down right awful. |
 |
| Yep! That is polycrylic on my hardwood floor! |
It could have been much worse. My husband was home when Farns found and knocked it off the table and was able to clean it up without any damage. Which is a good thing too, because we rent and I cannot imagine how horrified our landlord would be if he saw this. I think am beginning to understand why ridiculously high pet deposits exist...
As for the table project, I did not get nearly as much done on day two as I would have hoped. This is due in large part to my being a bit under the weather recently. I even stayed home from work and slept in until 11am! But my illness did not keep me from attempting to work on the table, although it did put a huge damper on my productivity.
I set the painting mood with music and tea, and got to work, expecting to spend a few hours painting. Alas, the being up and moving around did not bode well with my sick body and I was exhausted after about 30 minutes, which is when I decided to call it quits and take a nap. In that 30 minutes, I was only able to paint one coat on two more chairs, leaving me with three more chairs to paint and 7 pieces of furniture to paint a second coat on. *sigh*
I expect to finish the painting process Saturday and begin the many layers of polycrylic on Sunday. I do, however, have to make a run to Home Depot first, because half of the can of polycrylic ended up on my floor. Silly cat, paint is for humans.
Kitchen Table Redo: Part Two
This process is going to take a lot longer than I expected. I imagine it will take me three, maybe even four days, painting about 3 hours each day, to complete this step. Maybe I am reading the wrong blogs and living in a fantasy land, but I did not expect to be painting for three to four days. I expected to have the whole kitchen table redone in four days. Well, now that I have officially landed on planet Earth and understand how things work in this world, I can better plan my future projects. But for those of you like me, who are novices in this arena, maybe you can benefit from my mistakes.
Painting: Day One
After the day I had at work, I was very much looking forward to painting my dining room set. I made myself a cup of green tea, put my iPod on the speaker dock, blasted the music into my work space, and settled right into what I knew would be an afternoon of relaxation and painting. After two and a half hours, I had painted one coat on the entire table (I painted underneath, even though many other furniture makeover bloggers choose not to do this) and finished one coat on ONE chair before my hand started cramping, leaving me with five chairs and a second coat on all 7 pieces to do before I will finish the painting portion of this project.
It was at this point that I really realized the misconceptions I have had about painting furniture, and decided to stop for the day. Plus it was getting dark and my work space has very poor lighting. I spent the remaining minutes of daylight walking my puppy down the street, which she seemed to greatly appreciate after being ignored for the two and half hours I was painting.
I did, however, forget to take a picture of my progress today while there was some daylight left. And since my work space has awful lighting, the pictures I did take after nightfall are too dark to see the black table and chair clearly. The white chairs show up quite nicely though.
 |
| Progress on day one of painting. |
Kitchen Table Redo: Part One
 |
| The dining room as it currently is. Also meet Euler (left) and Professor Farnsworth, or Farns for short (Right) |
 |
| My new table that is in need of some tender love and care. |
 |
| One of the chairs that is missing a back post. |
 |
| An example of the scratches. |
I plan to post this project is three posts, and will post the entire project in tutorial form once it is complete. Here it goes.
And So It Begins:
After spending only about 30 minutes on Pinterest looking for a good tutorial or two to follow, I actually came across a couple that I thought really gave me the information I was looking for. First, I have always wanted an all black dining set, but was not really sure if it would turn out. Then I stumbled upon Pink Toes and Power Tools and got the inspiration I needed. Her dining room set is very similar to the one I just purchased and I was able to see how awesome it would be! Second, because I do not own a sander, nor do I see any need to purchase one, I decided to follow the advice of Bless This Mess and use the non-sanding approach to redoing furniture. I am very grateful for this, because let me tell you, sanding furniture is a pain in the arse. I helped my father redo his dresser last summer and I swore I would never do that part again.
So today Doug and I set out to purchase the necessary equipment at Home Depot. Since we did not have any of it, our purchase was a bit more expensive that I would have liked, but I can reuse all of it on future projects I have planned. The following was what we purchased based on Bless this Mess's tutorial and our specific needs.
- Zinsser Cover Stain Oil Based Primer - $9
- Two medium grit sanding blocks - $7
- Minwax water-based Polycrylic - $18
- Paint - $9
- Gorilla Wood Glue - $5
- Three paint brushes - $15
- Dust/paint fume masks - $3
Again, this was a bit higher than anticipated, but we did not have any of the materials. When I begin my next project, however, the cost will not be nearly as high. Woot!
Next, Doug and I decided to dive right into the painting part of the project first, and worry about the two chairs that are missing their back posts later. We spent about an hour and a half lightly, and I mean very lightly, sanding the every inch of the table and all six chairs. This took a bit longer than expected because we had to clean up some of the scratches and paint droppings.
 |
| The table after the cover stain had been applied. |
It took about three more hours, with both of us painting, to do two coats of the Zinsser Cover Stain on the table and one coat on each of the six chairs. The cover stain goes on easily though and dries quickly too. So far, so good.
 |
| The table and six chairs with the cover stain. They already look better. |
I think the table is off to a great start! They already look a ton better and I cannot wait to apply the black paint tomorrow!!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)